Interview: Atsushi Nakashima Tokyo Fashion Week SS15 / Jus Vun: photographer in Tokyo, Japan

Photgraphy and Interview by Jus Vun.

JV: Tell us about your roots in fashion and your experience working in Paris.

AN: After graduating from Nagoya Fashion College in 2001, I entered New Lead Factory as a pattern maker. I participated in the 20th Onward Fashion Grand Prix and one of the judges was J.P. Gaultier. I made a really simple collection and I hoped to impress the judges by using my haute couture technique. At the time, I thought I would either fail completely or win the prize and fortunately, the latter happened. That's how I was scouted and hired by J.P Gaultier himself to be his assistant.

JV: What were some of your struggles back then?

AN: In 2004, I moved to Paris to work for Mr. Gaultier and at the time I couldn't speak French. During my first four years, I started out by helping out with his bag and clothing collections and after that, I moved on to being in charge completely of his diffusion clothing line. I was a bit lacklustre with my French language studies; I started not showing up to my French classes but JP Gaultier found out and he was not happy to say the least. I eventually I picked up the language so I have to thank him for setting me straight.

JV: What was it like working for J.P. Gaultier?

AN: He's passionate, energetic and dedicated to his work. On top of that, he is a really sweet person.

JV: Your debut collection focused on lines and geometry but you moved away from that until SS14’s Geometry collection. In your latest SS15 Broken collection, you continued with geometric themes which is becoming somewhat of your trademark. What additional elements have you added to the SS15 collection and how have you evolved as a designer since your first collection?

AN: Actually, the underlying concept of geometry has always been a central theme of my brand but in some collections it was very subtle hence it was less obvious and noticeable. I am really inspired by the patterns that nature creates (the Fibonacci sequence). For example, the lines and seams on my dresses look like it's designed that way but it's more that the seams are necessary and as a result it forms that shape.

JV: Your mastery and attention to pattern-making and construction is highly regarded. What else do you think should be a central focus in designing a collection?

AN: Construction, stitching, quality. I was originally a pattern-maker working in a factory. In Europe, pattern-makers and designers work in different departments thus the communication between the departments can be inconsistent and some information gets lost along the way. Initially, I wanted to create a uniformity with my collections between pattern-making and design so I try to do everything on my own from scratch. Since that time, I have trained my crew how to draft patterns the way I like so I don't have to do it anymore.

JV: What are your thoughts on avant-gardism? Do you consider your collection experimental and innovative and pushing the boundaries of the norm?

AN: Yes, but it's a lot more subtle now. I've done enough conceptual work so now I am moving on to more ready-to-wear collections.

JV: Any opinions on the fashion industry (the consumers, designers and business) in Japan as compared to France? What would you like to see change in either country?

AN: Europeans appreciate creativity but in Japan it's more about “kawaii” (cute) culture. European design is more focused on cultural references but Japan denies culture and history and anything new is appreciated without background context. When I was in Europe, I was influenced by costumes so I can appreciate that difference more.

JV: You have stated before that your early influences were Rei Kawakubo. Have you ever had a chance to meet her?

AN: Prior to working for Mr. Gaultier, I was into Commes des Garcons. If I hadn't worked for him, I might have been doing something more similar in line with what Ms.Kawakubo did. I have never met her in person but I was patternmaking for her clothing line while working in the factory.

JV: Neoclassicism is a central focus of your inspiration and creation. What are some other sources of inspiration for you?

AN: My travels in Europe, Gaudi architecture, Art-Nouveau philosophy and art.

JV: Where do you see the brand in the future? You have said you would like to show your collection in Paris within the next few years.

AN: Yes, hopefully in two or three years.

JV: What’s your best piece of advice for young fashion designers?

AN: Learn from the past. If I were born in a different era, I wouldn't be creating the same collections I am now. It's important to reference history, art, fashion and architecture and then make minor changes, remixing and adding your personality to your designs.

Special thanks to Mariko Aoki for translating

http://aserica.com/exclusive/atsushi-nakashimas-exclusive-interview/

Publication: Interview with Fleamadonna designer Jei Kim for Aserica

Photos and Interview by Jus Vun.

JV: Your parents worked as pattern designers and you studied at a fashion school in Seoul. Tell us about your roots in fashion and the struggles and successes so far in your young career.
JK: My father has been a pattern designer for over 40 years so I imagine if it hadn’t been for him, I wouldn’t be in fashion. My hometown is far from Seoul and I am always busy so I don’t have much time to see my parents. However, they are thrilled when actresses or singers are wearing my collection on TV and that makes me happy, too. I would say having my own label at 22 years old would be my biggest success so far.

JV: The theme of your collections are usually cute and flirtatious, extroverted and sporty. They seem perfect for the assertive urban girl. What kind of lifestyle does a Fleamadonna girl live?
JK: A city girl, when she grows up, she lives out her life like Carrie Bradshaw.

JV: What do you do in your down time?
JK: I enjoy staying at home with my boyfriend. We watch movies and cook dinner together.

JV: Inspiration for you has come from just about everywhere. From Japanese subculture, Disney cartoons and musicians such as Madonna and Katy Perry. What was the inspiration for your SS15 collection?
JK: I was inspired from last holiday, a trip to Thailand. I enjoyed the beach, good music and the atmosphere there.

JV: How do you think you’ve evolved as a designer since your debut collection? How would you like yourself to improve as a designer?
JK: Nothing has changed since I started my collection until now. I think I am progressing a little slowly but I’m always trying to improve myself. I am happy that my collection is more in demand. On top of that, I can get better fabric, I now have my own sampling studio and also a good crew around me.

JV: Take us through your process of gathering ideas and finding inspiration.
JK: I get the feeling from travelling in other cities, or from my friends. They are all different styles that make me feel so much inspiration.

JV: Do you see Korean fashion becoming as international as K-Pop has over the past few years? What needs to be done for that to happen?
JK: Many Korean young designer are representing own collections in Paris and London now. There’s a good vibe going on. Also K-Pop is so famous in the world and that’s a good influence for Korean designers, too.

JV: There are some young, up and coming Korean fashion designers. Which designers do you like? Also, what designer clothes do you personally wear?
JK: I love the shoe brand Reike-nen. She has so much talent.

JV: Name some celebrities that made you most proud by wearing your designs and which celebrities you would love to see them on?
JK: I was so surprised when I saw Pink! wearing my collection on a TV show. I would love to see Madonna wearing my collection in future.

JV: What are you most proud of as a South Korean national and how would you like to see your country change?
JK: South Koreans are very hard working and open-minded in accepting new things.

JV: Where do you see your brand in the future? Would you prefer to show in Paris, New York, London. Why?
JK: Everywhere. Now I am focusing on other countries but I will also like to do more in my own city of Seoul. Also my goal is runway in Paris.

JV: Advice for young fashion designers?
JK: Find work in the fashion industry as young as possible then decide what’s the best career path for you, whether it is a designer, stylist or merchandiser, and don’t look back.

http://aserica.com/exclusive/korea-rising-fleamadonnas-designer-jei-kim-exclusive-interview/

Patchy Cake Eater Interview & Backstage for Aserica Magazine

INTERVIEW: http://aserica.com/exclusive/shigeki-morino-interview-by-jus-vun/

BACKSTAGE: http://aserica.com/exclusive/tokyo-fashion-week-ss-2015-patchy-cake-eater-by-jus-vun/

Photos and Interview by Jus Vun.

On this addition of Aserica we speak to up and coming designer Shigeki Morino on his rise to fame.  Read about his acclaimed debut in the fashion industry and details on his innovative S/S 2015 collection. Coming from humble beginnings, Morino is truly a success story, climbing the fashion ladder leading to the highly sought after Patchy Cake Eater clothing brand.

Who is Shigeki Morino? Could you tell us about your childhood and how you got into becoming a fashion designer. Where do you get your creativity from?
I was born in Tokyo in 1972. I came from a single-mother household, the only items around were hats and clothing so they were the essence of my creation.
I had no choice but, to create something from nothing. While I was watching TV as a kid, I saw some TV stars wearing vests and I wanted to create my own version using shopping bags. Being a child with so little materials to work with essentially shaped my ability to be imaginative and creative.  That's when I found my passion.
As I grew up, it was only natural that I got into the fashion business. Around the Roppongi and Nishi-Azabu area, I was always around fashionable people. If I wanted something in particular I preferred to create my own version rather than buy someone else's.

Patchy Cake Eater is a very catchy name, meaning “A ladies’ man with patches. The playful, sensitive type with a sweet tooth and a cool streak” as I saw in your lookbook. Could you tell us more of the type of man he is and the lifestyle that he lives?
The origin of the name Patchy Cake Eater started from the name “Cake Eater” which is a phrased used in the early 1900s.  It describes a man going out, partying and indulging himself while wearing something sexy and playful. The reason I put patchy on top of that is because of the life I have been through.
As you can see, there's always a colorful and playful element to my designs.  The essence of the garment is to create the image of a man who puts a casual twist on tailored clothes. We’ve taken masculine tailoring for women and crossed it over to men’s fashion. I try to bring the image of a ladies’ man back into the clothing and put it all together.

Tell us about your SS15 collection? I think the green suit and the Paparatchi jacket really stands out. Which are your favourite pieces of this collection?
Obviously the green coat as you mentioned. On top of that, the striped coats and the flowery pieces.

Can you give a man some style advice?
It’s a pretty difficult question because everyone has different body shapes. When I start creating, I start from the shoulder and then focus on the silhouette. So a fitted-shoulder line is important.

What and who has been your main source of inspiration?
My childhood memories.

What have been your biggest struggles and successes so far in your career? How did over coming past your struggles motivate you?
I started from small exhibitions, running my own brand year after year and now I am participating in the Tokyo collection. Gradually, more and more people got involved in the business. I’ve had the opportunity to meet a lot of people I wouldn’t have had the chance to meet so that keeps me going.

Do you have any plans to collaborate with other designers or artists in the near future?
Not off the top of my head but I started doing some projects with the ex-chief editor of L’Uomo Vogue Italy, who is now the chief editor of L’Officiel Italia. I also worked with one of the better-known fashion photographers in Japan for the look book. I am happy to collaborate with famous people in the fashion industry not only in Japan but from other countries.

Anyone in particular who you would love to see wearing your label?
Not in particular. If people pick up or wear items from my collection, I would be happy with that.

The models that you chose for the runway of your collection have a very particular style. A ladies man with an eclectic style, sometimes clad with tattoos. Are you involved with casting the models?
My stance for casting models is supervising it by following my image for every collection. For instance, the most recent show we held castings for over 30 to 40 models. I chose the models which fit our image. Not feminine, but manly, yet still elegant. For example, the guy with the moustache, or the beard and tattoos.
I don’t see my clothes as avant-garde. There are a lot of high-fashion type models but I prefer choosing models which people can relate to or can imagine as themselves.

Any advice for young fashion designers?
Actually no, I still see myself as a young designer. But if I had to say one thing, it would be that some men’s runway shows here are deviating too far from something wearable. There has to be a balance between entertainment and what is represented should be able to be worn on the street.